Thanksgiving and so on

For Thanksgiving I went to Flagstaff for the traditional Ethiopian feast. Lots of good food and interesting conversation with a mix of scientific types - from Linguists and Astronomers to a herpetologist. I continued to eat lots of deliciousness for the remainder of my trip there.

While there I did some climbing at the Pit with Dawn. Here she is hamming it up on True Value. I even managed to get an on-sight - Sling Fest (it didn't have bolts before).

Speaking of hamming it up - here I am in an egregious gratuitous double toe-hook bat hang in Joshua Tree from a while ago.

Here I am sending Go Granny Go at the Buttermilks. 

Jen appears to be a closet member of team color-coordination - here she is on Smooth Shrimp

Bouldering Season is upon us

That's right, cooler temps means it is time for the little rocks. (I suppose it has been bouldering season up at higher elevations, but I mean down in the Valley - the volcanic tablelands and the buttermilks among others).

It is still a little toasty for sending in the sun, but that makes for nice warming up and relaxing in the sun in between burns in the shade. I'll have to take more pics, but here are a few for a start.

My fingers feel pretty weak and my skin is so soft and tender. I am working on that though and hopefully soon I'll be back in sending form.

Sorry I have been neglecting the blog, but such is life.

Jill focuses on Wills Arete

gratuitous moonset over Mount Humphreys

It is the season to nap in the shade

the conditions up higher are more "exciting"

Evolution Traverse - attempt or scout

We (Sean, Kim, and I) prompted by Kim decided to try the Evolution Traverse. This would be a big undertaking for us, but we thought we'd check it out.  Kim had hiked in to the base once, and then bailed due to the enormity (and weather I think). Sean hates bivying, so we decided to try to do it in a push, which would make things even harder. We started shortly after 2 am and hiked in to the start (actually we probably started a little east of where you are supposed to start). By then it was light, so that was nice. We busted up onto the ridge and on to the summit of the first peak (Gould). Then on towards the next with some creative scrambling and a short pitch of climbing where I regretted not bringing the nut tool. A bunch more scrambling over false summits brought us to the summit of Mendel. From there we had a nice ridge descent for a bit before things got spicier with some raps down to the notch before a long scramble up to Darwin. I was no longer keeping up with Sean, but we were still moving right along. It was 1:30 pm or so and supposedly about 40% through the business, although the hardest technical stuff was just ahead. We decided that if we continued on there would be unpleasantness - more unpleasantness than we wanted. This would take the form of a long cold uncomfortable bivy or climbing through the night with headlamps with route finding problems. Also we weren't sure we were up for meeting the technical challenges at the speed required to see us through. So we lounged on the summit longer and then headed back. Well after the pass Sean reverted to his normal mode of mountain transportation - running - and Kim and I continued to stumble down the trail to get out before 9:30 - over a 19 hour push - which was probably enough.

The theme of the day was "MEAT" according to Kim which she would yell out from time to time - prompted by trying to eat a bunch she had before it went bad. I am not sure we succeeded, as part of the reason Sean left us was intestinal distress.

We were trying to go light and fast, so I didn't even bring my camera! It did make the hiking and scrambling quicker and easier, but I didn't get many pics. We had a single skinny 50M rope as well as a set of nuts and a bunch of slings. We all brought rock shoes, but I was the only one who wore them (for the one bit I led).

Here is the spot track.

http://www.findmespot.com/spotadventures/index.php/view_adventure?tripid=314886

Kim on Gould with the ridge to Mendel behind her

Here I am on Darwin with the rest of the traverse behind me

This traverse has teeth and isn't afraid to bite

All of these pics are from Kim's camera. Thanks Kim.

Disaster - sort of - good thing it is a Pentax

The unthinkable happened, while pulling my camera out of the case I had strapped to my chest it caught on something and popped out of my hand and out of the case and dropped from chest height onto a granite slab. CRASH. I said a choice word (or 2 - loudly) and picked it up. The flash had popped open but otherwise it was in one piece, except for the large cracks across the front of the lens - luckily they were just the clear filter on the front. I turned it on and it seemed to work, although it had trouble focusing with the cracks across the front. Still, the pics appeared to be ok and with a different lens it seemed to be 100%.

This looks like a good place to drop a camera - NOT

resulting in this

the cracks actually didn't degrade the image as much as you'd expect

especially with a larger aperture and zoomed in a bit

It took 4 hands and a skeletool to get the busted filter off the next morning, but then that lens (Pentax DA* 16-50mm) seemed to work fine too. That is good because I would have been extra super grumpy to have both busted my camera and to be carrying an extra 12 or so pounds of useless dead weight on a 3 night backpack trip. Thanks for building such a solid tool Pentax (the K5 and 16-50). Needless to say, after all the trouble getting the camera out of the case I went to the Cotton Carrier shoulder strap carrier the next day. Not only was it easier to get the camera out and back but it had a backup attachment so even if I fumbled it the camera wouldn't hit the ground. It still sucks to have fumbled my camera and to break an expensive filter, but it is so much better than it could have been.

luckily the camera seemed to still work fine (taken with different lens)

2012 Sierra Challenge - take 1

I would like to write up a nice trip report for the 2012 Sierra Challenge with lots of pretty pictures and gruesome detail. That won't happen for a while, so meanwhile I will say that I did complete the challenge and it was challenging. I managed 17 peaks total for 2cd for the polka dot jersey - not really contested as Sean could have blown me out of the water any day. I was a very distant 4th for the yellow jersey - only by virtue of completing all of the challenge peaks. I need to stop carrying a dslr and learn to run down mountains if I want to compete in this category.

Sunrise on day 6 - an "easy" day

This challenge started out easily enough but quickly turned rough with a lot of rain and some brutal days at the end. Even the approaches to some of the trailheads were hard.

To make things even more challenging I twisted my ankle on the approach to Mt Carl Heller and then climbed and downclimbed the E ridge and exited George Creek. It was sort of hurting and quite swollen that night. The next (and thankfully last) day involved some 26 miles and 8700 feet of vertical - you see how it was. There were also more early starts - as early as 4 am and plenty of 5 am starts. This did help us to get onto the summits before the rain and more importantly the lightning. The weather did deter me from trying to get more bonus peaks - so did the fact that I got pretty exhausted.

There were many incredible people participating in the challenge. It was humbling and inspiring to get dusted by people many years older than me and those with full time jobs that live near sea level. Still, I think just completing the challenge is a worthy accomplishment.

Because I am lazy I will post some links now...

Bob Burd - the instigator's - website

http://www.snwburd.com/bob/challenge/2012/

He posted some more links here:

http://www.snwburd.com/bob/challenge/2012/reports.html

A thread on summitpost with some trip reports and extraneous chatter

http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/http-www-snwburd-com-bob-challenge-2012-t61880.html

Sean's Blog - he describes what he did every day - I was with him for most of day 2 and 9

http://drdirtbag.wordpress.com/2012/08/10/matterhorn-whorl/

Rain on the lake below Mt Mendel - it continued back from here up over Tamarack pass

At some point I'd like to talk about every day and some of the my gear choices - such as using a cotton carrier for my camera, but that will have to wait for later.

Slackline and other fun with the Yogaslackers

Things have been a little hectic and when I finally get around to it I should have some good pics to post. Meanwhile I have a few teaser pics.

From the East Side I went over Sonora Pass to climb a bit at the Columns of the Giants with Ted et al. I did ok, but once I got too tired it was all over. Then I headed up to Grass Valley to join up with Sam and meet Isha, Jenny, and Phoenix. We swam in the beautiful Yuba River, set up some slacklines over the Yuba and a longline in a park. Fun was had by all - although there was some excessive uv exposure too.

Jenny falling off the waterline - some photoshoppery involved with this one

Sam on the waterline - he didn't fall

Here I am on one of the Yuba River lines

Sam leaping onto the longline

Raquel on the longline

From there I headed up to Squaw Valley for the Wanderlust Yoga and Music Festival. We set up a heap of slacklines and taught slackline and balance classes. I also got to meet more Yogaslackers - both old and new. It was fun to hang out with such an entertaining crowd. We also set up a line over a pond which was more fun when you were sort of wanting to get wet than when you were cold. Another entertaining thing was being a small part of a performance during one of the opening acts for Ziggy Marley. 

Teaching at Wanderlust - note Ben & Jerry booth behind - free frozen yogurt samples

Jason's reflection from the waterline (flipped)

Anya on the waterline

Here is a link (or embedded) video from Prana of Wanderlust 2012. There are some good bits of Sam slacklining and you can see a bit of our performance near the beginning.

After the end of Wanderlust I headed to Lover's Leap for 2 days of climbing before moving on to Salt Lake City for the Outdoor Retailer (OR) show. Someday I plan on sleeping too, but the Sierra Challenge is coming up fast.

Sam at the ToeSox booth

Dan and Sam at the Brenthaven booth

Backpacker Sierra Challenge Article

The August Backpacker magazine is out and it features a photo essay on the 2011 Sierra Challenge by Michael Darter. There are lots of awesome pics made more awesome by the fact that 5 include me (even if one is a repeat in the table of contents and I am a dot in another). Still it is pretty dang cool. Check it out. (page 78 to 83 or so - titled "Summit Fever")

The first page - note yours truly representing with the
Yogaslacker shirt in the upper left

update: they have now posted some online... http://www.backpacker.com/2012-august-sierra-challenge/destinations/16772

Meanwhile I have been hiking and peak bagging in the Sierra again. I can pretend I am training for the 2012 Sierra Challenge although I fear that no matter what I do the actual challenge will be quite challenging. Hopefully I can get more trip reports finished up.

Here is one for the Mount Whitney Mountaineers Route...

trip report for scrambling up the Mount Whitney Mountaineers Route

R.I.P. Inov-8 roclite 390 boots

RIP Inov-8 roclite 390s, thanks for all the miles

I don't usually talk about the death of a pair of boots, but these have been a faithful companion of mine for many many miles, both horizontally and vertically. I first got them for the Montana TMF back in 2008. This sufferfest was lovingly called 4 days - 4 ways to die. Despite not really being appropriate for steep icy snow (with 10 point crampons) or class IV packrafting or biking, they worked quite well. Since then I took them on many many trips. They were my only footwear for a few months on the East Coast. At some point one of the laces frayed something awful. When I got a pair of their lighter cousins the roclite 295s in 2010 these were put on the back burner, but I still used them a bit. Then after the horrendous thrashing the 295s took in the 2011 Sierra Challenge I dusted these off, stuck in a new lace and used them for a few more Sierra trips. I was reminded of how comfy they were and how well they climbed (up to 5.7 on Mt Clarence King). This last 6 day trip up Mt Williamson among others finally did them in. The gore-tex liner wore out under the forefoot (which actually let out a lot of powdery grit that had accumulated there), and the final kicker was the sole actually wore out in the middle of the foot. Before that happened I was still planning on how I was going to seam-grip them again and head back out. Alas the holes in the soles sealed the deal. I will miss them greatly.

a very well worn boot sole

Around Flagstaff

I have had a number of climbing and other trips around Flagstaff this spring. Among other things I bouldered at Buffalo Park and Super Roof, climbed at Paradise Forks, Sedona, Volunteer Canyon, The Peaks, and the Hobo Jungle,   slacklined at the park, and biked/hiked up Mount Humphreys.


Super Roof is a long horizontal climb along the roof under a ledge. I actually managed to get it with my first try (this year) and then was unable to do it again despite many tries. It is good training though.

Dawn on Super Roof

Dawn on Super Roof

near the end of Super Roof (thanks for taking the pic Dawn)

Dawn - it was a high gravity day.

We took advantage of a cold snap to head down to Sedona to climb "Duck for Cover". It had 3 pitches at I would say 5.11, 5.10, and 5.11. I fell at the end of the long first pitch at the crux "hands" section that involved .75 camalots (very thin for my hands) over a bulge. The last pitch was pretty spicy too.

John W tapes up for "Duck For Cover"

"Duck for Cover" on the leftish side and up the crack on the buttress for the first pitch

One day I biked up to the Arizona Snowbowl and then hiked up to the summit of Mount Humphreys. They are installing pipes and snow making stuff as well as a new run. There is some controversy because among other things they will use reclaimed waste water for the snowmaking. They definitely didn't want anyone getting in their way.

they want to be able to throw the book at protesters at Snow Bowl

new ski run in the upper left plus trenches for reclaimed water lines

trenches for reclaimed water lines for "snow" making

At the summit there was very little wind, which was nice except there were also a lot of bugs that are normally blown away or hunkered down. I didn't spend long up there because of them. As usual the descent went a lot faster than the ascent.

summit fat pill on top of Humphreys

panorama from the summit of Humphreys

fresh leaves on the aspen trees

I climbed at the Peaks and the new area the Hobo Jungle a few times. It is most excellent Dacite climbing, although fairly sharp on the finger tips.

Verm "manning up" at the Peaks (maybe DK took this pic)

Dawn and Darren at the Hobo Jungle

Peregrine Falcon

I taped the sun viewing glasses onto the front of my telephoto to take pics of the transit of Venus. I could barely see it with just the glasses.

transit of Venus

We went out to Volunteer Canyon for 2 days. It was very nice except for the tiny biting bugs and the fact that my sleeping bag wasn't nearly as warm as it is supposed to be. It was definitely some adventure climbing. You would rap in to where you hoped the climb started and then lead your way back out. Many of the climbs were over 100 feet. It was also a bit of an adventure driving out there with some less than stellar "roads".

Dawn, Verm, and Chris check out Volunteer Canyon

the Verm turns the roof on "Tralfamador"

Tralfamador

night time at Volunteer Canyon

Volunteer Canyon panorama from the N rim

That's some of what I've been up to for the last few months.